"LOST/MISSING DOG"

It happens. Dogs get out of their yards, get off their collars or away from their owners.

If this has happened to you or you are trying to prevent this from ever happening with your dog(s) please read below.

On FENCING/ PROPERTY:

Some dogs have a tendency to wonder or explore. They are always checking out the environment around them. Smells, pray drive or boredom can lead the dog out of their yard and away from their home.

Most medium - large dogs (and even some small ones) CAN & WILL scale/ jump a 4-5 foot fence. We have seen and know of dogs that dig under fences, climb fences and even chew through fences when left unattended.

ELECTRIC FENCES are a problem waiting to happen:

These invisible fences do NOT protect your dog(s) from outside sources such as, people wanting to take your dog or other animals. Invisible fences do NOT keep dogs inside their property line. We have seen dogs run straight through the invisible line chasing after a cat, squirrel or another dog. Once their adrenalin decreases the dogs can not get back into their yard due to the electrical collar that is around their neck preventing them from crossing the line. So, if the owner is not there to help them, they start to wonder...

4 or 5 Foot CHAIN LINK FENCES:

For those that have 4 or 5 ft fences you will need to add on to these fences to make sure they are secure height wise so the dog can not jump them. If you can not add on to your fence you will need to resort to taking your dog(s) for walks or runs... get them use to a treadmill... use a long line to play fetch with them in your yard...  and/or give them mind stimulating toys/puzzles.

Make sure the bottom of the fencing is secure with built up land securing the bottom, concrete (for diggers), or adding a metal bar around the base so the dogs can not push under the fence.

If you have a 6 foot chain link fence already, a way to secure the dog from climbing or jumping is to add a strong cable that surrounds the top.. add PVC piping to the cable (cable going through the pipe). This will allow the PVC pip to roll so the dog can not grab on to the top and pull him/herself over. This is an inexpensive way to create your own "coyote roller".

If there is any part of your fence that is weak.. Fix it immediately before allowing your dog into the yard to roam off leash.

www.rutkoskifencing.com

If your fence is not "up to par" and you decide to "tie your dog out MAKE SURE the theater is not too long to where the dog can jump the fence and hang him/herself. Also, there should be shelter to protect your dog from the weather (hot or cold) and clean water available at ALL times.

The better fence to install in your yard is a 6 ft privacy fence that is dug two - three feet into the ground. Now we know these fences can be pricey so in the mean time while you are saving for a proper fence, to relieve your dogs energy.. again: take them for walks or runs... get them use to a treadmill... use a long line and play fetch with them... give them mind stimulating toys/puzzles... take them swimming... etc....

The absolute BEST way to prevent your dog from escaping your yard is to be there in physical form with your dog while they relieve themselves, when they are playing or just relaxing. NEVER leave your dogs unattended. <-- you may see us write this more than once ;)

You being there with your dog will deter strangers from feeding your dog or even worse, steeling your dog. You being there to watch your dog will stop them from trying to escape if they are the venturous type. You being there shows that you are their guardian and will watch over them....
just as you would your children. Right?! - We hope so!

FRONT & BACK DOORS:

Put a extra tall baby gate in your door ways that lead out of your house. Some dogs are known to push screen doors open when they see something or someone they wast to get to.

Extra safety locks can be added to glass doors to secure them a bit more as well.

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On HARNESSES - COLLARS & LEASHES

These items should be on your dogs when they are out of your house. A collar with your dogs ID tag should be on your dogs at all times, except when they are in their crates (some dogs get their paws caught in their collars when trying to curl up for rest).

Before leaving your house, check your dogs gear. Make sure it is fitted properly and everything is secure. If there are tears, broken buckles or weak spots - replace your equipment immediately.

HARNESSES:

We like to use the Freedom No- Pull Harness. It has an attachment in front of the dogs chest and between their shoulder blade. It also comes with a two part leash that can connect to the harness in the front & back or to the harness and a collar. Double thumbs up!

Check your dogs harness ever time you put it on him him/her. They tend to loosen from time to time due to the dog trying to pull or just simple usage.


COLLARS:


We like to use Sirius Republic martingale no slip collars as an extra back up for wiggle pups. We secure our dogs ID (phone #, dogs name & address) tag, license tag, microchip tag & rabies tag to these collars showing people this pup is owned by a family and has the proper identification in case he/she does get lost.

Collars should be snug, about two fingers stacked width apart from collar to dogs neck. Not too tight and definitely not too loose where your can dog back out of his/her collar.





LEASHES:

We prefer to use 4 to 6 foot nylon leashes with an extra safety clip.

You will NEVER see our dogs on retractable leashes.. if we want them to have extra space for training, hiking or swimming we use a long line.

Make sure leashes are not chewed on by the dog(s). Chewed areas can weaken the leash and your dog when pulling can snap the leash.

___________________________________________________________

WHAT TO DO (( IF )) YOUR DOG GETS LOOSE OR IS MISSING:

#1 - Immediately(not days later), call your local police department AND Animal Control giving them a full description of your dog. Give them your dogs: name, age, size, spayed/neutered/or not, color, markings, collar color & style, let them know if he/she is chipped, several phone numbers for them to call, your personal address and where the dogs was last seen.

#2 - If you can get to the police station or animal shelter, give them a photo of your dog with all of this information on the back.

#3 - If you know of a face book page that post for local "Missing/Lost" dogs in your area, send a photo of your dog and info such as: Name, Sex, Collar ID, If he/she is micro-chipped, spayed/neutered, where they went missing from (County, City) and a phone # you are willing to allow the public to have.

#4 - If your dog is missing after 24 hours you will want to put an add in the paper, make up flyers and drop them off at local coffee house, pet stores, fire departments, dog parks & gas stations. Even contact local radio stations asking them to keep an eye out for your k9 kid.

#5 - check with your neighbors often and check back with your local shelter to see if anyone has turned in your dog.

___________________________________________________________

Prevention starts with an action! 

Be sure you are with your dog(s) at all times when outdoors. Never leave your k9 kids alone for long periods of time. Being with your dog can avoid them escaping your property or a stranger taking them. Being with your dog can deter them from harming him/herself, getting hit by a car/vehicle, dying from starvation/dehydration if missing for too long, shot by a neighbor or police officer that is not familiar in dealing with scared dogs and reacts instead of interacts.

YOUR dog is YOUR responsibility. Your job as a responsible dog guardian is to MAKE SURE you keep them safe. If you consider your dogs "family", then treat them that way. Protect them!

Yes, things happen, but you know (& the people around you know) if it was an "accident" or "laziness".

Finally:

Be sure that your pups license and rabies are up to date. 

An added safety measure and a responsible dog owner bonus: 

#1 Have your dogs micro chipped in case their collar ever breaks off.

#2 Get an extra ID tag put on your dogs collar with his/her name and a phone# someone can reach you at if they do find your pup. You can even write your phone# in sharpie on your dogs collar if you don't want to buy an extra tag. 

Hope this helped a bit. Let's keep those pups safe and home! www.modifiedk9.org

"Water Proofing" Dog Beds

When searching for a new dog bed for your k9 kids, try to find something that has a zipper cover that can be removed.

After you get your dog bed picked out, pick up some garbage bags that are the same size or bigger than your bed. We use 55 gallon drum liners that fit perfect for our large size beds.
You can also use smaller ones for each side of the bed. 

By placing a garbage bag over the entire cushion it will prevent spills or messes from leaking through. Not to mention it is way easier to clean just the cover and not the entire bed. 

Small beds are doable, but med to large, is just a pain in the butt.

Using a simple garbage bag will also cut down the cost on "water proof" dog beds, which can be expensive due to the size of bed you may need for your pup.

This idea is great if you have a new puppy, a messy dog, dogs that lick their paws, dogs that drool  or for senior dogs. It is also great for people that like to wash their dog beds once a week... 

like us haha.  

A Cat Toy for Dogs

The flirt pole is a super-sized cat toy made for our canine buddies

Made of 5ft - 6ft PVC pipe (on the thinner side), 13ft - 15ft rope (adjust as needed), & a favorite toy of your dog's. Total cost? About $9.00 - $12.00!

Besides the treadmill & nose work, this is one of our favorite tools for tiring out our dogs. It is used for basic obedience, training, & positive reinforcement. All the while making the time with your dog fun, exciting, & rewarding!

*To make:
after stringing the rope through the PVC pipe 'pole', simply tie a knot at one end & tie the toy with the other end. 

*Your dog should already be familiar with the following commands:

sit, stay/wait, look, down, leave it/drop it, & take it.

When using the flirt pole, make sure your dog does not grab the toy without your command.

If he/she does, stop the game & calmly ask your dog to leave it/drop it. Remain patient & non-interactive until he/she does so & then start over from a sit or down.

The combination of mind stimulation & exercise will make for

 a very happy & content pup by the end of the session.

& the best part. . .the reward C:

ENJOY!

Come when called. - Recall Game

We use the clicker (or marker) during a lot of our training sessions. When we use the clicker we never us it to attract our dogs attention. The clicker is used when our dogs are doing the exact action we want.

Today we are going to fill you in on a fun game we do with our pups to teach them how to come when called. This exercise will help your dog understand to come to you every time you call them.

Pick a spot that is safe, fenced in or even start in your home so your pup can't get away from you if they get distracted. Start off with two people standing about 8-10 feet apart from one another. Each person will have some soft, small sized treats and a clicker. We like to use Natural Balance food rolls for our dogs training.

When everyone is ready start calling your pup with the word "come" or "here". Make sure everyone uses the same word in a happy tone. When the pup comes to you click, put your hand on the dogs collar and give him/her the treat.

As your pup learns the game, start increasing the distance and the distractions. You will want to start of at a short distance with little to no distraction at first to help your dog succeed in this game. Have fun and make the training sessions short. Making sessions short will keep your pups attention and your pup will learn to stay focused. Too long of a session and your pup can get distracted easy. You always want to end on a good note and the command you asked of your dog.

Tips on when to call your dog:

-Never call your dog for negative/bad things
-Never call your dog and then lock him up for the day to go to work or leave the house.
-Never call your dog to come in from play time, instead go get him.
-DO call your dog for positive/good things like dinner time, treats, walks, car rides, games, play, cuddle time ;)

When you teach your dog to come when called remember you may need it one day to save your dogs life so every time you call your dog it MUST be related to something positive. Then watch them come flying into your arms.

Pearly Whites

Our k9 friends need dental care just as much as we humans do!
 Overall health is so important in all of our lives. Proper nutrition, exercise and routine "grooming".  Unfortunately, dental hygiene for dogs is sometimes overlooked. So next time you go to brush your teeth have you pups following you into the bathroom and pay attention to their pearly whites as well we your own. ;) Catching teeth problems early in your dogs will help avoid severe dental disease.

Your veterinarian will also take a look at your dog’s pearly whites during routine exams, make sure you visit your vet every 6-12 months for wellness check-ups and watch for signs such as: 

-Halitosis (bad breath)

-Increased salvation

-Calculus/Tarter (hard coating on teeth that is usually yellow or brown in color - plaque build up

-Bleeding gums 

-puffy/red gums

-Crying out when chewing or Reluctance to chew

-Loose or missing teeth etc. . .There are several things you can do to help keep your dog’s teeth in good shape. Make sure you start dental routine as early as possible in your dog’s life so he/she get used to having their teeth brushed and inspected. Brushing your dogs teeth is another good way to help keep those pearly whites in tip top shape, but if you do brush them yourself here are some important "need to know" tips. . .

#1. Before you begin, make sure to ask your vet to show you some techniques to make brushing your dogs teeth easier on your dog and you. 

#2. NEVER brush your dog's teeth with human toothpaste. your dog can get very sick from this. Make sure you use toothpaste MADE FOR DOGS. You can pick this up at any pet care store. So, NO human products for your dogs. Period.

#3. Start out brushing your dogs teeth with finger brushes. These are not as awkward as hard brushes and it can help ease your dog into having their teeth and gums cleaned. 

#4. Daily brush is recommended as plaque will turn into tarter within 24-48 hours.

#5. if you are not able to brush your dogs teeth, look into an oral rinse MADE FOR DOGS. 

#6. Dental treats are another good option but should not replace teeth brushing/cleaning.

Being 'hands on' with our dogs can help them have an easier time at the vets office for exams. Groom your dogs coat, bathe your dogs, clean their ears, cut their nails and brush their teeth regularly. May seem silly, but these are things our fur kids need to live healthy lives and these are the kinds of things we do for our family. So, happy care taking everyone - your dog will thank you for it . . . so will your vet and your wallet ;)
Check out these links for more info:

Chronic bad breath in dogs

Your dogs basic needs

Importance for Dental Care for your pets

The "Touch" Command

The "Touch" command is one our favorite exercises to do with our pups.  No only it is a mind stimulating exercise, but you can use this fun game to help you communicate with your dog(s).  Even Deaf dogs can benefit form this. Teaching the "touch command" helps your dog focus on a target and associate that target with something positive.  We use the touch command to guide the dogs on & off the couch, into their crates, heel by our side, sit by our side, go to a mark, go over an agility jump, we use it as a recall, for k9 nose work, to get them into and out of a car and we even use it for our dog reactive dogs just to name a few things you can do with this exercise. 

We first teach our pups to target our hand with their nose, than we teach the dogs to target objects like their toys, leashes and even other dogs. They will understand when they hit the target with their nose they will get rewarded for it. They start to associate things that may have at one time made them shy away or made them "reactive" towards it with something positive and therefor their behaviors will start changing to more of a positive behavior that is very manageable and more tolerable.

Below we are going to show you the basics to the touch command. After your pup picks up the idea of the command then the sky is the limit C:

First you will need to start out with a hungry pup. Try to teach this exercise before meals and with as little distraction as possible. If you  have more then one dog, put the other pup away some place that he/she can not disrupt this training session.

Hungry pup - CHECK!

Next you will need a treat bag ( we get our from Valley Dog ), you will also need a clicker and a food roll. (also available at Valley Dog) We like to use the food rolls because they are a high value treat that can be cut up into small pieces (shown below) and stored for later training sessions. You want to pick a treat that is soft so your pups can eat it fast and still stay focused on the task at hand. You also want the treats to be higher value then their every day dog food.

Food Roll, Clicker & Treat Bag - CHECK

Cut up treats! - CHECK

Once you have your treats cut up and your pup in a nice calm setting (put him/her on a leash if they tend to take off). You are ready to start.

Get yourself set up first. Place the treat bag where the treats will be easy for you to grab & place the clicker in your hand you use most. Take a piece of treat and put it between your fingers of the hand with OUT the clicker

Once you get that in a comfortable position, show your pup the treat. Don't say a word at this point, just show them the treat. As SOON as your pups nose or mouth touches your hand CLICK. Take the treat OUT of that hand and feed it to your pup with the clicker hand. Do this about 5 - 6 times.

Again:
Place treat between finger of hand with OUT clicker, show your pup the treat, as SOON as you feel your pups nose or mouth CLICK, switch the treat to your other hand and give it to your pup....

Note:
Make sure your pup comes to you and you don't shove your hand in your pups face. Also start off close to your pup so you set him up for success.

as soon as he touches your hand CLICK

take the treat with the other hand & feed the treat to your pup

Now that you have done that several times and your pup is going toward your hand as you drop it by your side. The next step is to remove the treat from your hand, hold your hand down, say "TOUCH" and wait till your pup touches your hand with his nose. When he does, IMMEDIATELY click and then offer him the treat.

Offer hand with out treat and say TOUCH to your pup!

Do this a few times. Start moving your hand in different areas, but keep it close to you when 1st learning this exercise. If your pup is doing really well end it on a great note and try it again later on. Try to keep the training sessions short at 1st and try to end them when you pup is still interested in learning.

As your pup get's better and better. Start giving him more of a challenge. Start raising your hand higher, over to the side, behind you, put your pup at a sit from across the room and say TOUCH and watch him come FLYING into your hand! 

When your pup understands the touch you can start adding more challenges to this exercise.
And remember HAVE FUN!!!!

Check out this Video of Johnny Royal doing his touch exercise and how we use it to also work on his "heel".. or "get to my side"  - CLICK HERE

** If you are doing this with a deaf dog, obviously you will not be using the clicker or your voice. Instead you can use a small key chain flash light as the "marker", flash the light at your dog when you feel his/her nose hit your hand and then follow the rest of the steps above :)

Police Respond to Vicious Dog in Baltimore City

Here at Mk9, we receive a lot of emails and messages about Pit Bull and Pit Bull type dogs. News reports and stories from all over. From both sides of the spectrum as well. The good, and the bad. When we find the ones we believe will do good to help further the education of the general public, we "Share" them with hopes that people will be influenced, and motivated to see Pit Bulls and their owners for what they are, and not what the Media would make them out to be.

Today, we received a rather interesting story from a gentleman in Baltimore. It was a story about a Vicious Dog call, and the Police Officer who answered it. The interesting part is, the gentleman who sent the story IS that Officer who answered the call. So here is the account, from the source;


Hey,

I'm a Police Officer in Baltimore City. I am originally from Wilkes-Barre, and I am a fan of your organization and Pit Bulls. Today I received a call while on duty about a vicious dog chasing kids. When I came on the scene, I noticed people yelling out their windows at the dog. I followed the dog into an ally to see how it was acting. Going on my own approach, being a dog lover, I got out of my car and called the "vicious dog" over to me. The dog came over with it's tail between it's legs and panting. I grabbed my water bottle and the dog sat down next to me and began licking my pants. I started giving the dog water. I brought the dog over and waited for the pound to show up. My partner was not a fan of dogs and was startled by my approach. I suggested to him that this dog cannot be put down, and should be taken to a shelter. We took it upon ourselves to take the dog to the shelter, and transported it in the back seat in the back of our patrol car. Then I decided that I wanted to keep the dog, and spoke to the shelter about the steps to take to adopt it. The dog was originally kept outside and was filthy, and now it just might have a new home. I know you like positive pictures so I have attached a few. Have a great day and keep up the good work!

Officer Dan Waskiewicz
Baltimore City Police

When we heard this story we could not help but SMILE, and maybe do a tail shake or two! :)

Then we got to thinking more about it. How awesome is this story! Not only does it have a happy ending to it, but there are also some major applause points:

Instead of assuming the dog to be vicious and shoot it dead, (as we see so many times before) he analyzes the situation, and sees a nervous dog that needs help.

Instead of letting animal control pick up the dog, and let it disappear, or be put down, he personally takes it to a shelter, IN HIS CRUISER!!!

Finally, he offers the pup a new forever home!

So we at Mk9 would like to say Thank You! Officer Dan, for taking the time to be patient and give a dog a chance. And step outside the stereo types and see this for what is was. A loose dog who was nervous, and needed someone to help. Not someone to yell at him and assume him to be dangerous.

Here is "Bo" with his new family. A perfect picture of a perfect ending or an amazing new beginning. 

Photo by Dan Waskiewicz

CHECK OUT THIS AWESOME UPDATE!!  We'll keep it a secret until you click the link ;)
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150968546036956&set=a.277239856955.154351.58771761955&type=1&theater

And this :D
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150968544351956&set=a.277239856955.154351.58771761955&type=1&permPage=1

AND THIS!!

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150958328476956&set=a.277239856955.154351.58771761955&type=1&theater

Dog Parks

We feel that dog parks are typically a poor idea for any dogs as a general rule (this doesn't mean we would ever condemn you for using them though!). As someone who has studied animal behaviors and displays for my entire life, i cringe when i watch dogs at dog parks. So many owners not paying attention to the slightest body posturing, bullying, humping, pooping, etc. Certain breeds are just more prone to being dominant to other dogs as well as low dog tolerance and flat out dog aggression. You can have a dog never exhibit an ounce of dog dominance or aggression....until the day another dog grabs ahold of it at the local dog park. It can also just be learned from the other dogs and the 'pack' environment dog parks usually create.

The most obvious reason, to me, for them being a less than amazing idea is how easy it is for larger dogs (of any breed or any background) to injure a smaller breed of dog, or a puppy (even in easy play). Most people say "these things happen" and "don't worry", but then you receive a vet bill totaling thousands of dollars, or a law suit, or the dog warden's visit. Unfortunately, we no longer live in a society where we can take people at their word. We also live in a society where, if you own a pitbull (or any of the other BSL-[breed specific legislation] targeted breeds), you are automatically expected to go above and beyond the precautions of the average dog owner. Is this a fair obstacle we must hurdle? Of course not, but it's simply the way things are in the world of BSL.

Another much more common reason, is the laziness of other dog owners. If someone cannot watch their own dog's behavior, do you think they're going to be cleaning up after their dog? Not likely. The list of diseases transmitted via the simple sniff or step into a pile of waste is scary. You have no way of knowing for certain if these dogs in question have had all vaccines. Some dog parks want proof of certain vaccinations these days, and that is an awesome approach, but not fool-proof. This whole area is the one that I find most scary, as well as most unappealing, and just gross.

A third point to touch on is just setting your dog up for failure. I have known many dogs who never react after a first altercation or attack from another dog.I have also known dogs who have been completely ruined after an early serious altercation in their lives. It can have an adverse reaction in a dog's life, and can always make a dog anticipate the worst. This can in turn, CREATE fights that are stated by your own dog now thanks to that first ever highly negative reaction.

Every breed of dog has a specific genetic makeup. Each breed has certain temperament traits that have defined them for centuries. However, the genetic gene pool for "pit bulls" (american staffordshire terriers, staffordshire bull terriers, american pit bull terriers, and every single mix thereof) has been so watered down by unscrupulous breeding with no care to standard, that it has created dogs who lull you into a false sense of security with their behaviors towards canine friends. It has also made people who have adopted pit bull mixes for 10-20 years feel as if every single pit bull will be just like those 2 or 3 dogs they got lucky with. That is just that though.....a lucky streak on their part.

After being a life long akita owner, and adopting my first pit bull 7 years ago already, I once established that I would never be a dog park frequenter. At first this was an idea that really upset me, until I actually visited my first dog park. All I had to do was sit there and simply watch everyone else for a few hours. It was enough to provide a panic attack and make me feel blessed to have never been a regular at one. ;)

Things like doggie play dates with a small group of familiar dogs, or even only one other dog, are amazing alternatives to dog parks. Then you and someone you trust can handle every issue and situation that could arise. You can easily stop dogs when needed or break up any scuffles. You can also feel safe knowing no diseases will be transmitted if it's someone you have known for quite some time and feel totally confident in trusting. The keyword to me for doggie play dates, is TRUST. Make sure this is with someone you can trust, or an environment you can easily control if you need to be the one in charge.

Another fantastic option is a run/jog or a hike with canine friends and their owners, where all dogs are leashed. This enables positive interactions as well as the highest level of control. Dogs can easily focus on the other scents and sights in these ventures too, and not focus so seriously on another dog. See our Pit Bull PowWow outings.

The last thing I want to finish with is this: It will not kill your dog to never make doggie friends outside his or her house. Pit bulls and many breeds similar to them in temperament care about one thing above all else....YOU and interacting with you. All of the dog parks, play dates, and canine travels in the world cannot hold a candle to the joy little Fido gets from hanging out with you. So get outside and interactive with him/her, take in this gorgeous late spring weather, and most importantly bring a leash to guarantee the safety of pooches around you (especially your own pooch)!

Written by: Nikki Stixx

Time to store the food bowls. . .

We are putting those bad boy bowls up on a shelf, out of reach. . .
Why?

Well, there will be no more "free" meals for our pups.  Dogs in general like to search for their food, they love to work and the mind stimulation is great for a healthy dog. Our normal routine in the mk9 home is to ask our dogs to sit or down before they receive their meals, but we are stepping up the game a bit. Now they will have to work for their entire meal, in a fun tasty way.

What we are about to show you works well for people on the run and don't have a lot of time to do training until their dogs entire meal is finished. This also works well for dogs that are racer eaters (gobble their food in 2 bites), dogs that like to dump their dishes or dogs that get board with their food (picky eaters).

"We can treat boredom using constructive discontent (hunger) to expend energy, and stimulate intelligent problem solving, resulting in pets that are physically healthy, smarter, and more emotionally fulfilled." - Dr Tripp

What you will need is:

-Large (or) x large size Kong Ball (black), Kong Wobbler or a feeding puzzle that your dog really loves.
The reason for these choices instead of your dogs average food bowl, is there is CHALLENGE involved.

-Next you will need your dogs food that you normally feed.

-For Kong Balls we like to add a bit of Peanut butter (optional) to the top to hold in the dog food.

Food puzzles for your pups will vary in difficulty when getting the food out, pick something that best suits your dogs personality. For example: if your pup is a bit over weight or very clever at getting the food out you may want a harder food puzzle like Canine Genius. If your pup is on the thinner side or gets easily frustrated we recommend starting with an easy puzzle or kong ball. If you like to add a bit more variety to their meal time hide the feeding puzzles around your home.

NOTE:
- If you have more then one dog in your home, make sure all dogs are separated during feeding time. We wouldn't want to set our fur kids up for failure by placing a high value item in the middle of two or more driven dogs. So, put your pups in their own crates or designate a specific room for each.

-Do you feed your dog canned/wet food?
If you do, freeze the food in the puzzles or place the feeding puzzle in a x large bowl which makes it more difficult to get the food and keeps the room cleaner. ;)

Here is a list of some of our favorite feeding puzzles.

If anyone would like to donate any of the below feeders to the mk9 rescue dogs we would be grateful.  

Email mk9karen@hotmail.com for address or more details. Thanks all ;)

• Kong toys  
• Molecuball Treat Ball 

• Busy Buddy Toys 
• Crazy Ball 

"Having a job to do, a challenge, a problem to solve that is within your abilities to do is what keeps us alive, aware and engaged in our lives and the same is true for our canine companions." - Dr. Marty Becker 

We ((LOVE)) routine! -and so do the dogs!

A solid strict schedule = structure, patience & obedience 

Even after a short time the new kid Johnny is picking up on our routine.

We try as best as we can to keep the pups schedule the same every day.
They wake up at a certain time, go out at a certain time, eat at a certain time, train at a certain, play at a certain time and even cuddle at a certain time.

With a schedule along with the "nothing is free" method we help the dogs become more balanced, calm and content.

They get to know what is coming next.
This schedule helps them replace their anxiety or bad behavior issues with patience and understanding of how things run around here.

We are the leaders and they are our pup scouts.

Feeding time:

After the pups all do their business they head back to their crates, their food is placed in front of them and they are told to WAIT as we close the door and do the same for the next pup.

After all the food is down, doors are closed and they are "waiting" nicely we tell them all "OK" and they are free to enjoy their meal.

NOTE:
We feed ALL of our dogs in their crates at ALL times.
This allows them space to eat their food as they will with out being burdened by another dog or devouring their food in a fast manner because there is another dog scouting out their meal.

Crating at feeding time will prevent any unnecessary spats and after they finish their meal they get to relax & digest until it is time to go out for their morning walks and training session.

Frozen Stuffed Kongs

Froze Stuffed Kongs are a wonderful thing when we have a busy day ahead and need an extra few minutes to do laundry, dishes, check your emails or what have you.  The night before you go to bed and after the pups are settled in for the night. Collect all the Kongs you have laying around your house or in their crates.  Stuff them with your pups favorite canned dog food and some peanut butter.  Then place all the Kongs in the freezer until the next morning. It is that simple.

Frozen Kongs are great for when we have new dogs starting on tie downs and getting use to their crates.  Keeps them busy for some time which leaves you free  to catch up on some work or much needed rest. Esp if your a foster parent. ;)

Check out Johnny Royal and his first ever Frozen Kong. Kept him busy for about an hour this morning. No lie - an entire HOUR! With an active 2 year old son in our house we have no time for rest so the extra hour made time for some Lego building adventures.
YAY for Frozen Stuffed Kongs!

Safety Clip For Extra Measures

When getting ready for our outings one of these first things we do is make sure all of our pups collars and harnesses are fitted properly (not too tight, never too loose). When that is all secure we do one extra step that may save you and the pups from an "oops" moment.

We add a safety clip to the end of the leash which
attached to the harness or no slip martingale collars.  You can get the clips at any sporting good store, super market or you can even find them in your dollar general stores. They are usually any where from  $5.00 to $10.00 depending on the clasp.

At one time or another  we have had dogs bounce around in excitement on the end of their leash and unhook the leash clip to the collar leaving us with a leash in hand and NO dog. The dog is off in another direction running after a rabbit, bird or what have you. The feeling is not a good feeling so we have added an extra safety measure to make sure this doesn't happen. We feel a bit better as well using this simple trick with our leash reactive dogs. We always want an extra hand when it comes to making sure they stay at our side ;)

Once you have the clips the next steps are extremely simple.  Attach the clip from your leash to your collar or harness. You want to make sure the openings of the 2 clips are facing opposite directions.

Shown on a Freedom No-Pull Harness

Shown on a Martingale no slip collar - Awesome collar handmade by Sirius Republic

And there you have it. Easy as that!! Check out our friends at Sirius Republic and get your clips ordered.
Who would of thought a $6.00 clip could save hundreds of dollars in medical bills... "dog for bid" your pup ever got away and got hurt.

The simple things are what makes us sm:)e.
Happy outings all.

Want to Become a Foster? Start by Finding the Right Rescue Group

Fostering is not a task to take lightly.  Not only are you opening your heart and home but you are introducing an entirely new world for the dog that will be entering your life.  A game plan should be in place BEFORE you bring home your new friend.  Although you are not starting out as the dog's "forever" home, fostering is still a long-term commitment. Be ready to make this amazing commitment!

Today, we're focusing on the importance of choosing the right rescue group. Fostering for a quality rescue group is probably the most important aspect of your fostering journey.

*A successful foster experience requires a good relationship with the rescue group you are working with.
*An important goal of the rescue group should be making the right dog/family match. The rescue group should take matching foster dogs with foster families very seriously.
*Stay clear of groups that will toss any dog your way before getting to know you and/or the dog.

A QUALITY RESCUE GROUP - WHAT ELSE DOES THAT MEAN?

Quality rescue groups will ASK you the right questions!

An experienced group will WANT to know about your environment/life, how many family members are living with you and if they will be helping with or at least accepting of a foster dog. They will want to know about the other animals you have (how many and what kind). They will want to determine for themselves if those animals will be accepting of another animal and go over options if they are not. They will want to know if you have the knowledge of fostering in general and for the specific breed you may be choosing (side note here - no experience does not mean you don't qualify! It just means that a good group will take this, and everything else, into consideration when finding the right match). An experienced rescue group will want to know if you are willing and able to follow their guidelines for fostering one of their dogs. They'll want to know if you'll be willing to communicate concerns that may arise during your journey with your new friend. They will want to make you aware that it can take time to find a forever family and will want to know if you are completely on board.

*Bottom line - they will want to find out everything they can about you just as much as you want to find out about them!

GO TEAM! Fostering is a team effort.

Look for a group that will give you the support and guidance you will need during the entire time your foster dog is with you.  This is a group effort and you should never feel as if you are taking this on alone.  This journey is a huge responsibility that all parties need to take seriously (all parties = you, people in your home, and people of the rescue you decide to go with). The more seriously all parties take fostering, the more likely you all will successfully reach your goals - getting the dog home-ready and finding the right forever home!

WHAT ELSE SHOULD I FIND OUT?

Fostering is a two-way relationship - what questions should YOU ask?

Make sure you ask the group you are going to foster for how they will aid in this foster experience:

-What will they supply to get you started? (crate, bowls, blankets, collar, leash etc. . .)
-Will they take care of the foster dog's medical/vet needs?
-Will they help you with obedience & home-ready training?
-What will they do with the dog when/if your family goes on vacation? Or has an emergency?
-How will they help you address issues that may arise?
-Will they be available for questions at any time regarding your foster dog?
And any other questions that you can think of that will help you enter this situation with confidence.

The experience.

Fostering is a fun and very rewarding experience. You will grow and learn right along with your foster dog. You will feel joy and love and your new friend will feel it, too.  It may not be easy at first but you are learning and so is the dog you just saved.  Be patient. Be kind. Ask questions. Learn. Enjoy.

Happy fostering everyone. 1 home = 1 life saved!